LUEDER
| LUEDER | |
|---|---|
| |
| Established | 2019 |
| Years Active | 2019-present |
| Parent Company | Independent |
| Website | https://lueder.shop/ |
LUEDER is a contemporary fashion brand founded in 2019 by Marie Lueder. Based in London, United Kingdom, it is known for its garments being seen as mental armour and integrating medieval silhouettes.[1]
Background
Marie Lueder has a background as a tailor at the Hamburg State Opera.[2]
LUEDER likes to work with materials that are in a pre-consumer waste part of their cycle, asking models and other creative collaborators for their old garments so the brand can upcycle them and give them new life.[3]
“They have already made the choice to buy this garment,” said Lueder. “It probably has good memories attached to it – like holidays or big events. It’s important for me to retain these memories and stories, but create a new garment that’s working for them.”[4]
History
The brand was founded in 2019, but before that, her ex-partner of ten-year had suffered from depression which opened her eyes to the complexity of mental health-induced challenges. “I have always [been interested in] a particular set of masculinities that are afraid of showing vulnerability but at the same time feel incredibly overwhelmed by society,”[5] she said. It was during this period where she started to understand the therapeutic potential that creative acts like pattern-cutting and sewing can offer. She stated that she couldn't soothe her partner with words, but that creating garments offered a different expression of support. Which lead to her creating her own brand in 2019, LUEDER, to equip those facing challenging mental obstacles with a metaphorical armour inspired by feudal-era knights.[6] The brand properly launched right before the COVID-19 pandemic.[7]
By February 2020, only months into the launch of the brand, LUEDER was already showing during London Fashion Week as part of the British Fashion Council’s Discovery Lab.[8]
Stockist Browns, was quick to follow up with LUEDER's work, fascinated by the tailored trousers and roll-neck shirts. Browns launched an initiative back in 1997 called Browns Focus, to spotlight and support emerging talent, partnered with LUEDER alongside other designers such as Maximilian and Bianca Saunders. They helped the brand launch a capsule collection which was exclusively sold at Browns.[9]
Style
LUEDER's aesthetic draws inspiration from medieval silhouettes and armour, creating a layer of protection for the wearer. Lueder’s design practice exists in the intersection of formal- and sportswear. “I try to engineer new ways of pattern-cutting so that the body is free to do whatever it wants", she said in an interview with Another Magazine.[10]
The usage of lasting and tough fabrics in order for the garments to give the wearer the brand's established definition of armour, is crucial to the brand. LUEDER is a frequent user of denim for longevity and nylon for comfort and elasticity.[11] Some of the the medieval inspired pieces are conical hoods, metal amulets, whilst some pieces resemble helmets and sheaths.[12]
Themes
LUEDER works with the three time paradigms: the past, present and the future. Which features upcycled t-shirts, something that Leuder herself have worked with since 2018. They’re t-shirts from older generations, which capture their time which was a safe time in terms of being able to see a sustainable future, and have an idea of retirement. When it comes to the present, the brand works heavily with denim as it's functional and solid.
For the future, LUEDER works with more functional and elevated material such as water repellent fabrics and super lightweight nylon for the brand's outerwear.[13]
Motifs
A common motif used by the brand, is the usage of spirals.
Notable Products
During the showcase of its AW25 collection, the brand decided to show a tank-top with a tongue-in-cheek joke with the words "Men are so BACK" printed on the front" of it. The top created quite a stir at the show with people laughing, being confused, and whipping out their phones to post the moment on their social media accounts. “The idea is, there’s a specific horror in the world,” said Lueder, backstage, when asked about the piece. “It’s about a specific kind of heteronormativity coming back at us."[14]
Collections
Mention key runway collections or capsules. Include details like debut years, creative direction, standout looks, or reception.
| Title | Season | Date | Location | Looks | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AW21 | |||||
| Synthetic Fire | SS23 | ||||
| Journeyman | SS24 | London, United Kingdom | It is informed by Kevin Reynolds’ 1995 sci-fi film Waterworld, creating otherworldly uniforms to combat the end of humanity. Men and women are fitted in inventive armor captured against burning cars and buildings.[15] | ||
| Mono-myth | AW24 | London, United Kingdom | It is informed by Kevin Reynolds’ 1995 sci-fi film Waterworld, creating otherworldly uniforms to combat the end of humanity. Men and women are fitted in inventive armor captured against burning cars and buildings.[15] | ||
| ALBEDO | SS25 | London, United Kingdom | 30 | London Fashion Week debut. | |
| The Shell | AW25 | Berlin, Germany | Featured a tank-top with the slogan "Men are so BACK" printed on the front, a tongue in cheek joke that sparked plenty of intrigue.[16] | ||
| SL∀Y | SS26 | Berlin, Germany | Drawing on the legend of Saint George and the Dragon, this production reimagines heroism, gender, and power dynamics through performance, fashion, and movement.[17] |
Creative Directors
| Name | Tenure |
|---|---|
| Marie Lueder | 2019-present |
| Add creative directors and their tenure here. |
CEOs
| Name | Tenure |
|---|---|
| Marie Lueder | 2019-present |
| Add CEOs and their tenure here. |
References
- ↑ https://www.fashionweek.berlin/en/brands/lueder.html#:~:text=LUEDER%20represents%20a%20hybrid%20linked%20to%20sportswear%20complemented%20by%20maniacal%20attention%20to%20sartorial%20detail%20mixed%20with%20medieval%20silhouettes.%20LUEDER%20researches%20medieval%20armour%20based%20on%20the%20desire%20for%20shielding%2C%20freedom%20of%20expression%2C%20and%20bringing%20out%20their%20individuality.
- ↑ https://slamjam.com/collections/lueder#:~:text=Lueder%27s%20experience%20working%20as%20a%20tailor%20at%20the%20Hamburg%20State%20Opera
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=To%20offset%20the,the%20coming%20months.
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=%E2%80%9CThey%20have%20already%20made%20the%20choice%20to%20buy%20this%20garment%2C%E2%80%9D%20said%20Leuder.%20%E2%80%9CIt%20probably%20has%20good%20memories%20attached%20to%20it%20%E2%80%93%20like%20holidays%20or%20big%20events.%20It%E2%80%99s%20important%20for%20me%20to%20retain%20these%20memories%20and%20stories%2C%20but%20create%20a%20new%20garment%20that%E2%80%99s%20working%20for%20them.%E2%80%9D
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=%E2%80%9CI%20have%20always%20%5Bbeen%20interested%20in%5D%20a%20particular%20set%20of%20masculinities%20that%20are%20afraid%20of%20showing%20vulnerability%20but%20at%20the%20same%20time%20feel%20incredibly%20overwhelmed%20by%20society%2C%E2%80%9D
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=%E2%80%9CI%20have%20always,feudal%2Dera%20knights.
- ↑ https://www.brownsfashion.com/se/story/marie-lueder-interview#:~:text=I%20decided%20to%20launch%20my%20brand%20properly%20in%20February%202020%2C%20just%20before%20Covid%20hit
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=By%20February%202020%2C%20only%20months%20into%20the%20launch%20of%20her%20brand%2C%20Lueder%20was%20already%20showing%20during%20London%20Fashion%20Week%20as%20part%20of%20the%20British%20Fashion%20Council%E2%80%99s%20Discovery%20Lab.
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=Stockists%20like%20Browns,at%20the%20retailer.
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=Why%20do%20I%20want%20it%3F%20Leuder%E2%80%99s%20design%20practice%20exists%20in%20the%20intersection%20of%20formal%2D%20and%20sportswear.%20%E2%80%9CI%20try%20to%20engineer%20new%20ways%20of%20pattern%2Dcutting%20so%20that%20the%20body%20is%20free%20to%20do%20whatever%20it%20wants%2C%E2%80%9D%20she%20said.
- ↑ https://www.anothermag.com/another-man/13375/leuder-the-fast-rising-brand-equipping-wearers-with-modern-day-armour#:~:text=It%E2%80%99s%20not%20just,comfort%20and%20elasticity.
- ↑ https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/61898/1/marie-lueder-berlin-fashion-week-aw24-fw24-mono-myth-mental-armour#:~:text=The%20designer%E2%80%99s%20eponymous,battle%2Dready%20clothes.
- ↑ https://www.brownsfashion.com/se/story/marie-lueder-interview#:~:text=I%20work%20with,for%20the%20outerwear.
- ↑ https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/66001/1/marie-lueder-aw25-fw25-berlin-fashion-week-men-are-so-back-slogan-statement-tee#:~:text=%E2%80%9CThe%20idea%20is%2C%20there%E2%80%99s%20a%20specific%20horror%20in%20the%20world%2C%E2%80%9D%20said%20Lueder%2C%20backstage%2C%20when%20asked%20about%20the%20piece.%20%E2%80%9CIt%E2%80%99s%20about%20a%20specific%20kind%20of%20heteronormativity%20coming%20back%20at%20us%2C%E2%80%9D%20the%20designer%20continued%2C%20before%20adding%20conclusively%2C
- ↑ 15.0 15.1 https://hypebeast.com/2023/9/lueder-spring-summer-2024-london-fashion-week-lookbook#:~:text=Titled%20%E2%80%9CJourneyman%2C%E2%80%9D%20it%20is%20informed%20by%20Kevin%20Reynolds%E2%80%99%201995%20sci%2Dfi%20film%20Waterworld%2C%20creating%20otherworldly%20uniforms%20to%20combat%20the%20end%20of%20humanity.%20Men%20and%20women%20are%20fitted%20in%20inventive%20armor%20captured%20against%20burning%20cars%20and%20buildings.
- ↑ https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/66001/1/marie-lueder-aw25-fw25-berlin-fashion-week-men-are-so-back-slogan-statement-tee#:~:text=%E2%80%9CI%20knew%20I,their%20Instagram%20Stories.
- ↑ https://www.fashionweek.berlin/en/brands/lueder.html#:~:text=Drawing%20on%20the%20legend%20of%20Saint%20George%20and%20the%20Dragon%2C%20this%20production%20reimagines%20heroism%2C%20gender%2C%20and%20power%20dynamics%20through%20performance%2C%20fashion%2C%20and%20movement.