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Current (Collection)

From The Fashion Codex

Current (Collection) is the second collection by Milk of Lime for Spring/Summer 2025. The collection was shown at Silent Green Kulturquartier in Berlin, Germany.

Concept

Background

Milk of Lime decided to go with a weather-like theme in their Spring/Summer 2025 collection, the collection featured 21 complete looks. Multiple garments had weather-like features such as being enshrouded in layers that created mist-like effects, others had "acidic rain" distressing.[1] The "white horses" t-shirt is a reference to the white, foamy crests that appear on the tops of waves when they break.[1][2] They collaborated with Jeroen van den Bogaert to create three coats with Wikipedia articles regarding the Beaufort scale on the lining, converted and chopped up into poems. Said coats are also reflecting the different scales of wind severity from 0-12 on the Beaufort scale on the overall design.[3] All the samples of the collection were made by Julia Ballardt. The collection also featured a wide range of different types of accessories such as belts and pen-holders. One look features a dress that could not be reproduced due the beginning of the fabric being weft into a warp for a new set of fabrics, the model's eyelashes had been made to resemble the dress' weft threads.[1][4]

Inspiration

The collection's inspiration comes from the German “Wie es Wetter wird” (English: “How the Weather Will Be”) which they bought for two Euros in a second hand store. The book is a series of four, all which they required through time, and the idea for their next collection started brewing. This lead to them wondering how to manipulate surfaces, and fabrics within the topic of weather. [1]

Themes

The collection's theme is 'Weather'. Several pieces from the collection feature weather inspired techniques and designs.[1]

Techniques

The collection features several designs with fascinating techniques. A white buttoned-up shirt, called the 'dyer shirt' has "tie-dyed" bundles hanging on the collar. The shirt was dyed with an all natural dying process featuring flowers, barks, and peels of vegetables.[5][6]

The previously mentioned bomber jacket, was covered in silk sheer to create a misty effect.[7] One of the pieces is a dress made out of viscose bought as dead stock fabric, which has been given a distressed effect to look permanently wet and damaged through acidic rain. This dress was part of the opening look.[8] Belts from the collection are originally pieces from horse saddles, they were created in collaboration with Julia's sister who is a horse saddle maker.[1]

Runway Show

Production

The opening look featured a distressed "permanently wet" dress and a fraying vest which featured laces and other left-over fabrics to create a "weathered" look that encapsulates the collection and the brand as a whole.[8][1]

The closing look features a sheer dress alongside an "overskirt/blazer/skirt/corset-mix of things" as quoted by Nico Verhaegen.[1] The overskirt resembles pieces quickly put together, in order to form some type of protection for a storm. The skirt was initially supposed to be a corset.[1][9]

Models

Casting: Maximilian D’Antonio[10]

Models: Lana, Kobe, Julius, Janne, Marta, Todo, Priya, Franco, Mia, Marlene, Jolina, Alisa, Tabea, Marlene, Carlos, Henry, Sophie, Greta, Happy, Victoria, Damrasi[11]

Model coordination: Rozalie Klimesova[12]

Styling

Styling: Johanna Bouvier[13]

Make-up team: Jenneke Croubels (lead)[14], Maria Overejo (first assistant)[15], Mai Anh, Carlotta Boattini, Kathrin Hieselmayr, Anri Omori, Eva Herbohn, and Darja Crainiucenco (assistants).[16]

Tools provided by: Ellis Faas

Hair team: Alessandro Margrin (lead)[17], Giovanni Tarantini (first assistant)[18], Filippo Cali, Alessandro Scatolini, Mattei Massimiliano, Micro Moro, Tommaso Magrin, Simona Rossi, and Liliane Reufels (assistants).[19]

Products: Balmain Hair Couture

The make-up either highlighted the looks by being natural, or enhanced by blending in colour-palette wise or adhering to the overall theme of the collection.

Presentation

The collection was presented at Silent Green Kulturquartier in one of the round rooms with chairs being scattered around in a placement which allowed the models to walk through and around the invited crowd. Adriaan de Roover's music enchanted the audience whilst the hall was filled with the scent "Thunderstorm", a perfume that's made to imitate the real scent of a rainy weather.[1][20][21]

Milk of Lime Spring/Summer 2025 'CURRENT' show notes:

Berlin, July 1st, 2024 — Milk of Lime returned to BFW as the winner of the concept contest Berlin Contemporary, presenting their new SS25 menswear and womenswear collection in a sensually charged atmosphere: In the circular chamber at Silent Green in Wedding. The Belgo-German Label presented their work again as winners of the concept contest Berlin Contemporary.

Before the presentation, the show's narrative announced itself: the colours of light and the soundscape of Adriaan de Roover captivated the audience already at the front door. The air was filled with an extraordinary scent: The Perfume ‘Thunderstorm’, imitating the electric nuances of rainy weather, became a sensual component of the collection concept.

The SS25 collection with the title ‘CURRENT’ dedicated itself to the topic of weather in a subtle manner. The designers examined the influences of supposedly positive and negative weather phenomena, which influence humans, our moods, our actions, and the environment, but also on fabrics and materials concretely. Myths and farmer’s wisdom were picked up in the design by the usage of graphic elements as well as text.

‘CURRENT’ embodies the typical aesthetic of Milk of Lime: consciously used raw edges, fluid transparent fabric paired with other natural materials like wool gabardine, Shetland felt, thin Loden, cotton muslin, and knitwear made of viscose and linen. The lineup was finished by ‘weathered’ surfaces and details that played with tying: collars, bag handles, sleeves, and hair strands were wrapped with fine cords or fixated with pins as if one had prepared oneself against a rising storm. The tones of the make-up palette resembled verdigris, which also subtly hinted at the location’s name. Since last year, the label has embraced a partnership with Ellis Faas Cosmetics, whose tools were visibly incorporated on the runway in the shape of jewelry and handbags — a climax of wearing make-up: not only on one’s skin but as an object itself, and a part of the outfit.

‘CURRENT’ pairs techniques from Haute Couture with grungy Elements, like silk skirts and lace details, with poetically printed band shirts. The combination of light fabrics with leather and knitwear elements effortlessly abolished the lines between summer and winter collections to inspire the audience to look more freely at clothing, liberated from seasonal conventions.

Special highlights were three gloomy-coloured jacquard coats that used dense compositions of motifs to symbolise the scale of Beaufort, a system used for measuring wind from complete stillness to utter devastation. All three compositions were developed in collaboration with Jeroen van den Bogaert, who juxtaposition the coats with matching wall tapestries. This autumn, the coats will be available with their matching counterparts as a capsule collection.[22]

The collection was exhibited at showrooms in Berlin and Paris.

Reception

The Reception section should include a general summary of the public reaction to the show and the collection, especially its reception in stores.

Legacy

The Legacy sub-section should include a specific and analytical summary of the collection's post-show legacy.

References

  1. ↑ 1.00 1.01 1.02 1.03 1.04 1.05 1.06 1.07 1.08 1.09 https://www.patreon.com/posts/extended-milk-of-115566884
  2. ↑ https://www.freightamigo.com/glossary/white-horses-or-whitecaps/#:~:text=White%20horses%20or%20whitecaps%20are,white%20foam%20on%20their%20crests.
  3. ↑ https://enfntsterribles.com/milk-of-lime-special-in-conversation-with-designers-julia-ballardt-and-nico-verhaegen/#:~:text=Nico%3A%20We%20collaborated,like%20a%20poem.
  4. ↑ https://youtu.be/1uPO-o3bQfg?t=53
  5. ↑ https://i0.wp.com/www.milk-of-lime.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Milk_of_Lime_SS25_Look002_by_Andrew_Thomas_for_BFW.jpg?fit=656%2C984&ssl=1
  6. ↑ https://i0.wp.com/www.milk-of-lime.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Milk_of_Lime_SS25_Look016_by_Andrew_Thomas_for_BFW.jpg?resize=600%2C900&ssl=1
  7. ↑ https://i0.wp.com/www.milk-of-lime.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Milk_of_Lime_SS25_Look018_by_Andrew_Thomas_for_BFW.jpg?resize=600%2C900&ssl=1
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 https://i0.wp.com/www.milk-of-lime.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Milk_of_Lime_SS25_Look001_by_Andrew_Thomas_for_BFW.jpg?fit=656%2C984&ssl=1
  9. ↑ https://i0.wp.com/www.milk-of-lime.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Milk_of_Lime_SS25_Look021_by_Andrew_Thomas_for_BFW.jpg?resize=600%2C900&ssl=1
  10. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Casting%3A%20Maximilian%20D%E2%80%99Antonio
  11. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Models%20in%20order%20of%20appearance%3A%20Lana%2C%20Kobe%2C%20Julius%2C%20Janne%2C%20Marta%2C%20Todo%2C%20Priya%2C%20Franco%2C%20Mia%2C%20Marlene%2C%20Jolina%2C%20Alisa%2C%20Tabea%2C%20Marlene%2C%20Carlos%2C%20Henry%2C%20Sophie%2C%20Greta%2C%20Happy%2C%20Victoria%2C%20Damrasi
  12. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Model%20Coordination%3A%20Rozalie%20Klimesova
  13. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Styling%3A%20Johanna%20Bouvier
  14. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Lead%3A-,Jenneke%20Croubels,-1st%20assistant%3A
  15. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=1st%20assistant%3A-,Maria%20Ovejero,-Assistants%3A%20Mai%20Anh
  16. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Assistants%3A%20Mai%20Anh%20Carlotta%20Boattini%20Kathrin%20Hieselmayr%20Anri%20Omori%20Eva%20Herbohn%20Darja%20Crainiucenco
  17. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Lead%3A%20Alessandro%20Margrin%C2%A0
  18. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=1st%20assistant%3A%20Giovanni%20Tarantini
  19. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Assistants%3A%20Filippo%20Cal%C3%AC%2C%20Alessandro%20Scatolini%2C%20Mattei%20Massimiliano%2C%20Mirco%20Moro%2C%20Tommaso%20Magrin%2C%20Simona%20Rossi%2C%20Liliane%20Reufels
  20. ↑ https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/#:~:text=Live%20music%3A%20Adriaan%20de%20Roover
  21. ↑ https://jtdapperfashionweek.com/2024/07/03/milk-of-lime-ss25-at-berlin-fashion-week/#:~:text=Before%20the%20presentation,2025%20collection%20concept.
  22. ↑ https://jtdapperfashionweek.com/2024/07/03/milk-of-lime-ss25-at-berlin-fashion-week/

The References section should include well-formatted and consistent citations in either APA or Chicago style, including author-date referencing (i.e. APA style) for in-text citations.

External Links

The full collection can be found on Milk of Lime's official website: https://www.milk-of-lime.com/current/

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